Top of the Morning to You

When we left Scotland we really began to wind down our trip. We had our tickets back to the US booked, but before we finished out our whirlwind last days through Berlin, Prague, Vienna and Budapest, we headed to Ireland for a few weeks. Elizabeth had already been to Ireland and was anxious to show me some of her favorite spots. We also wanted to make our own memories there so we visited a few other areas and even headed north to Northern Ireland.

The first Irish city on our itinerary – Dublin. Our day in Dublin started with our typical free walking tour courtesy of Sandeman’s. We covered many of the big sights in Dublin: Dublin Castle, Trinity College, the Temple Bar area, an old library where they have the books organized by author name. It was an ok tour. While informative, it was one of those times I was glad the tour was free.

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Dublin Castle
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Walking around Trinity College

After a lunch of shepherd’s pie, we headed over to get a glimpse of the Book of Kells. It hangs out at Trinity College in a collection of really, really old books/manuscripts. Pictures aren’t allowed within the exhibit, but most everything in there is between 500-1000 years old. Many of the works are written on vellum, calf skin. Almost all of the works are religious in nature. Although Elizabeth had already seen this on her EF tour, she was determined that I view it in all its splendor. 

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Trinity College Library.  Books in this library are arranged by size.

The amount of time taken to create these works of art is unbelievable. Even the mistakes made are beautifully corrected. I cannot imagine the diligence to complete the book or even a page.

We piddled the rest of the day, with only a Pub Crawl to look forward to in the evening.

You read that correctly, we elected/paid/anticipated going on a Pub Crawl. We love a drink or two, but being surrounded with people (usually much younger than us) drinking til they all go home with a messy face (either their own or someone else’s) is not our idea of a real fun time, but when abroad… As you may have guessed, it was a mess. Not for us, but for most of the other folks on the tour. We hung out with a young couple from Ohio and three posh British kids somewhere around the age of 20 who had flown over because they had a long weekend off from University. The Brits were fascinated by Elizabeth and I, an old, married couple from the US. They had plenty of questions, what we did back home, where we were from, and how we could be in a car for longer than two hours without wanting to kill ourselves. They could not understand the concept of how large the US is. Kids amirite?

The next day was split in half. The first half was planning the rest of Ireland. When we arrived in Dublin we had ideas of which cities we wanted to visit but nothing concrete. At the hostel in Dublin we saw a flyer for a craft beer festival in Doolin. I wanted to hear Irish music and Elizabeth wanted to get us to the Aran Islands. In Doolin we could do both. So during the first half of the morning in Dublin we built our trip around getting to Doolin for the festival.

For the second half of the day we went to the store and bought all the supplies for a delicious picnic.  It rained, but we had fun anyway.

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St. Stephen’s Green

When we woke up the next morning we hit the road. I was again behind the wheel of a stick shift driving on the opposite side of the road. It didn’t matter, we were on our way to Northern Ireland.

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Belfast Beauty

Not the kind of place you would want to go 30 years ago, and we were staying in Belfast. Not the kind of place you want to be lost in at night in the wrong part of town. But in another rental car, we made our way to Giant’s Causeway.

Yet another stop on our Game of Thrones unofficial tour, we had a nice look at the Dark Hedges. Apparently, they film all the places we went. Shame we didn’t make it to Iceland, otherwise we would have probably seen ever set location they have.

The hedges were packed to the gills with nerds, so we left quite quickly and kept moving for the Causeway. We eventually arrived and began to take in this wonder of the world. Unlike anything else you’ve ever seen, the Giant’s Causeway is a magical place. The hexagonal shoreline was created a very long time ago. It was first written about in the late 17th century before becoming a popular tourist attraction during the 19th century.

While it was crowded too, we did manage to enjoy some sections without too many people in the way. Another interesting thing about being at the causeway was the jerk who decided to wear the same shirt as me. Don’t know what his deal was, but I wore it better.

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Twins!

After leaving, we stopped into the Bushmills Distillery.  They had finished tours for the day, but not wanting to disappoint those who show up a smidge late, they still let you sample a decent amount of whisky, and for free no less. We hung around for as long as the whisky lasted, then took off to arrive in Belfast before nightfall.

The next day was Sunday, so we loaded up and headed to a Catholic Church in Belfast. Quite a brave thing to do, especially back in the 80’s. Before we got to church, we drove around the “peace walls” in Belfast. Built after a riot between Catholics and Protestants in 1969, the walls were built to separate neighborhoods between the two religions. The walls are still standing to this day and even have gates. Some of the gates for the roads were closed when we drove by on our way to church.It was definitely worth seeing. 

After mass, we made our way back south to Dublin. We had a date with a bus to Cork.

Living the High(lands) Life

A few days after the Hearts/Celtic game in Edinburgh, we made our way to Glasgow. It finally began raining in Scotland. It was in the rain that we got a bit melancholy and could sense our time in Scotland coming to an end. Glasgow was not as near as interesting as Edinburgh, but I think that also had to do with the weather. We went to a couple of museums over the course of a day and a half. The most interesting, the Mackintosh house, was an entire home designed by a couple (Charles Renni Mackintosh and Margaret McDonald Mackintosh). We learned about the couple and their influence on art and architecture. The design aesthetic of the Mackintosh house is like nothing else you have seen, made even more impressive considering their ideas are over 100 years old.

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Not the Mackintosh House. We couldn’t take pictures at it so you’ll have to visit it to see.

We happened to be in Glasgow during a live bag-piping competition. If you’ve ever visited Scotland then you know that most all street musicians are bagpipers, but it was still a sight to see actual bag-piping performances.

While in town we took a tour of the beautiful city hall which boasts the largest/tallest marble staircase (even beating out the Vatican by an extra half-story).

To complete our Glasgow town visit, we toured the Tennent’s brewery took a tour of their city hall (with a marble staircase higher than the Vatican), and visited a brewery that used to put half naked women on their cans for marketing purposes.

Our only night closed with having Indian curry at our fellow West Calder WWOOFer’s house just outside Glasgow. She invited us over to stay the night and we much appreciated the offer. We had fun talking to her and her fiance while we watched some more Olympics.

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The statue always wears the headgear. It’s a tradition.

The time at the second farm came to a quick end. A month had flown by in Scotland and we were disappointed to have to go. The weather was everything we ever dreamed of when visiting Scotland. We still had a few days left in Scotland before heading over to Ireland though and were looking forward to checking out the Scottish Highlands.

As we left the farm, we had a lot to do before we went to Ireland. First stop, Hadrian’s Wall. Built in 122 AD, it’s old. The Romans were slowly conquering everywhere and had made their way to Scotland and managed to erect a wall stretching across the entire island. There are a few spots along the way to see Hadrian’s wall and we stopped at a couple of them. The first was a temple devoted to the god Mithras, built around 200 AD. The other stop was the wall itself. We went to the most popular of the stops, the sight of a former fort, and a great place to see the entire countryside.

I will never grow tired of seeing Roman ruins outside of Italy. It never gets old.

From there we headed over to St. Andrews. We were criss-crossing Scotland, and I was driving the entire way. It was somewhat tricky to navigate a manual vehicle, with the shifter on the wrong side of the car, while driving on the wrong side of the road. Of course, if you’re gonna go see stuff, sometimes it’s tough.

We were headed to St. Andrews for my father. I don’t care a thing for golf, mostly because I’m terrible at it, but he said all he wanted was something from St. Andrews. Of all the places we traveled, he was most interested in a golf course.

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We arrived when the sun was setting. Too late to buy a gift, but just in time for incredible views of the North Sea and the Old Course. I could not believe how beautiful it was. The light was perfect, the temperature too. The only thing missing was decent golfers, because the hacks out there “golfing” left a lot to be desired.

I facetimed my father, hoping he would answer so I could show him around the Old Course. It was getting darker, but I knew he would want to see it. I was able to show him the famous creek and bridge on the 18th hole and had Elizabeth snap a few photos. He was certainly more excited for me than I was. We left early the next day, disappointed that we could not stay in town longer. It’s a lovely little town that needs at a couple of days to enjoy.

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On the bridge at 18

Our final full day in Scotland saw us head into the highlands. We weren’t able to drive as far north as what I had hoped to do, but we got awful close. Scotland was probably my favorite place we visited, the biggest reason being the weather and the landscape. Always cool to mild, rainy, green, mountainous, English speaking. I would move there quickly.

We worked our way from the east coast of St. Andrews, to the west coast of Mallaig. We had high tea, walked around the little port town, watched the sun set, and then settled in to some cider while watching the Olympics in a pub. We slept in the car since we couldn’t afford a room in town. We had a great time piddling around upper Scotland.

We left Mallaig at the crack of dawn, mostly because once the sun came up, we had no curtains to protect us from daylight. We took a leisurely drive back to Edinburgh, slowly creeping through the highlands still. We took a lot of pictures and tried to take in what I think was the most beautiful area on our long trip.

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Hogwarts, here we come!

We did finally go to a castle in Scotland, stopping off at Stirling Castle. We caught a tour of the grounds and learned a lot about the history of Scotland, a bit about William Wallace, and again how awful the English are. They had an interesting museum covering how those massive tapestries are made, awesome wooden carvings, and other stuff I forgot since I was panicking the entire time, stressed that we were going to miss our flight later that night.

On our way back to the airport, we received a parting gift from Scotland. Off the side of the interstate, we were surprised to see what we had only seen in model size – The Kelpies. IT was THE statue of the mythical horses that we saw in Kirkcudbright. I wish the kids from the first farm could have seen the surprise on our face when we saw them. We had no clue where they were in Scotland, but you can’t miss 100 ft tall horse heads as you’re driving down the highway. But our last glimpse of anything before flying to Dublin that night was the Kelpies. We laughed at the thought.

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Just wish we could have paused to take a decent picture.